Sunday, 22 July 2012
A short and sweet overview of my picks from Stitch Menswear this season.
Possibly the most well traveled man at the show, he's lived all over the world from Asia & North American to Europe - a fact that reflects in his designs. Great print shirts with acid wash, worn-in finish were the highlight.
The only head-wear at Stitch Menswear I'd consider wearing. The trilby's and basket-weaves came in a great range of colours. Thought I was over the trilby - I'm not.
The team behind last summers breakout 'I'm Bad' tees. Soft jersey tees, block colour and technical prints. Summer is their season. I want those candy stripe trunks!
Without a story, print tshirts bore me to tears. Luckily the Part-Time Superheroes boys were on hard to explain their prints in the small but perfectly formed selection of quirky photo-tees. To précis a 20 minutes conversation horribly, they're Glaswegian, they're full of energy and they have boundless enthusiasm. For that, I commend them.
Loved by Labyrinth, this paisley print knit blazer (the outerwear of choice next season) was cooler than...well Labyrinth himself frankly. A popped lapel, styled with a button down shirt & gold trims pushed it beyond my dreams. In short, I want this look. Every item. No exceptions.
The last time I wore a baseball cap was when I was 11 and it was used to shield my eyes from the sun. Despite my aversion to the trusty cap, I was instantly drawn to the Quiet Life rang - they're what I'd expect to find in Willy Wonka's wardrobe.
Possibly the brightest and most exciting section of ties, scarves and cravats I've seen in years. This selection instantly stood out amongst a barrage of streetwear. The range is all about gentlemanly quality, without feeling dated - a touch line to tread.
Best of the rest...
Saturday, 21 July 2012
Friday, 20 July 2012
Monday, 16 July 2012
I love that life can create situations without any control or management from me. In 2008, after becoming inspired by style in New York, I decided to try photographing some on a trip to Paris. The result of my first ever photograph, was a friendship I truly value.
Julian Martin Schott, then a student at L'Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, is now a designer working as assistant to Christophe Lemaire at Hermes. His innate understanding of style and quality is something I've experience in so few people it can be described as a rarity. Not just in his designs (which I was proud to photograph last year for his graduate collection), but also in his personal style. Each time I see Julian he always has a subtle update. Perhaps it's a new cut of trouser or a change in colour palate but whatever the change, he's always effortless and more importantly, himself.
Over the past year, I've photographed him countless times and decided to collate the film and photography together - inside the home and style of Julian Martin Schott.
Where did you grow up? Between Switzerland and Lyon
Five words to best describe you? Honest, Organised, Not-Crazy (but) Superstitious, Happy
Favourite designer? Helmut Lang
Best place to get inspiration? At home, with books and music
Best aesthetic period in time? Bauhaus and Wienner Werkstatte
Favourite Book? The Foundtainhead and The Great Gatsby
Top recommendation for Paris? L'EXPRESS BAR in 11e, Le Bon Marché & Nanashi on Rue Charlot
Saturday, 14 July 2012
Thursday, 12 July 2012
Wednesday, 11 July 2012
This week, the team at MCM invited me along to experience their freshly monogrammed bus. With the bus travelling everywhere from Canary Wharf and Shoreditch, to the Liberty store in the West End, it was only a matter of time before I bumped into them. Due to time restraints and the fact that I've never seen the area, I went to Canary Wharf and was greeted by crowds of dapper gentlemen in suits. No beards to photograph, but some great tailored street style.
Although excessive branding is really not my thing, I can't resist the nostalgic design of MCM's luggage. In a pale, untanned leather, it's subtle enough to not look LV-Lil-Kim-by-David-LaChapelle fabulous. I never could pull that look off.
The German MCM brand is launching this Autumn in Harrods.
Monday, 9 July 2012
I first discovered C. W. Dixey last October and was compelled to write about the range of frames, partially because I loved the designs and also due to the fact I'd never seen or heard of them. Being the official eyewear brand for Sir Winston Churchill is a pretty iconic accomplishment, which made me wonder what kept them off my radar. With a bit of digging, all I could find were lists and lists of incredible patrons: Napoleon, Ian Flemming, Tennessee Williams, Peter Sellers...you can't get much better than that. Nine months later with none of these questions answered, I met with Simon Palmer, Director of the company.
Simon was everything and nothing of what I'd expect from the head honcho for one of Britian's most iconic brands. Well spoken, poised and charming with a beautiful leather briefcase (expected) but also humble, friendly and incredibly relaxed (not so expected). After a few short minutes, it became clear that this is a man passionate about a family business and upholding traditions which, at one point, made the C.W. Dixey & Son name world leader.
Simon kindly showed me a record of the company archives which read like a who's who from the 18th and 19th century. It included a photograph of a custom created telescope for Chinese aristocracy in the 18th century and hand written letters from Sir Winston Churchill thanking the company for their designs. I was in awe. After 250 years at the top of their game, the company reached their peak in the 1970s but with the emergence of a recession and more importantly a desire for inexpensive mass production, something changed. A short thirty years later and it seems as though nearly three hundred have fallen out of public consciousness.
Cut to 2012 and things are on the rise. With the emergence of luxury desire in the BRIC nations, British heritage brands are back on top form. As C.W. Dixey & Son is the quintessential British eyewear brand, it seems fitting that Simon has looked back to move forward.
"I wanted to take the company back to where it was, creating a small number of beautiful things. We have a strong history of working with French artisans and also having French aristocracy as our clients, so everything is created by our expert manufacturers in France. For our newest designs, I've looked at our most beloved and icon items, and given them an update for the modern style hunter."
From the branding and packaging (cases with hand-stamped crests and fine leather pigments) to fine details of the spectacles, everything has been considered.
I asked Simon to bring along a few of his designs to try on, which he showed with pride and excitement. Each item was clearly thought out: the double dot details, the elegantly shaped legs and the varied tortoiseshell hues. I love it all. It seemed only fitting to have them photographed at Pall Mall with it's regal buildings and historic monuments - only the best, for the best.
See the current range of C.W. Dixey & Sons spectacles at CWDixeyandSon.com, and keep your eyes peeled for a new season range launching this AW12.